Travel: The ancient waters at the Roman spa in Bath, England

The Romans called it Aquae Sulis or “the waters of Sulis,” but locals now simply refer to it as “Baaath.” It is 100 miles North of London and has a known history going back to 60 A.D.

The Royal Crescent is one of Bath, England's best known landmarks (wikipedia)
The Royal Crescent is one of Bath, England's best known landmarks (wikipedia)

BATH, England, Aug. 13, 2016 – The Romans were everywhere two thousand years ago, including England. They were a clean bunch. After a long day of conquering and soldiering, the baths were a favorite place to tell stories about individual heroics, much the way modern golf course bars are gathering spots to recount your latest 18-hole adventure.

Perhaps the best place to experience Roman culture, elegant architecture, theater and museums in one place in England today is about 100 miles west of London in the city of Bath. The Romans called it Aquae Sulis or “the waters of Sulis,” but locals now simply refer to it as “Baaath.”

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The Pump Room in Bath (wikipedia)
The Pump Room in Bath (Wikipedia)

For travelers, Bath is a marvelous day trip by train from the English capital. Situated in hills of the valley of the famed River Avon, it was the hot springs that attracted the Romans in A.D. 60 because of their healing properties.

By the third century, the town was fortified with defensive walls, but with the decline of the Roman Empire in the early part of the fifth century, the luxurious baths fell into disrepair.

The once glorious spa and pilgrimage destination was layered with silt, leaving only the ruins of the temple of Sulis-Minerva to mark the ancient site.

By the seventh century Bath Abbey had been built, making the city a religious center. It was rebuilt twice, once in the 12th century and again in the 16th.

Thus contemporary travelers can revel in its architectural splendor even today.

Bath Abbey was first built in the 8th century near the original spa (wikipedia)
Bath Abbey was first built in the eighth century near the original spa (Wikipedia).

For 12 centuries, various churches came and went, and, though the hot springs were in continuous use throughout the Middle Ages, they never enjoyed the splendor of their glory days under the Romans until the 1600s, when they underwent a renaissance.

Roman baths in Bath (wikipedia)
Roman baths in Bath (Wikipedia)

Wealthy aristocratic families were again enticed to “take the cure” of the natural spring waters, and by the early 18th century it had become a fashionable spa.

Today Bath proudly proclaims that it “is the only place in the U.K. where you can bathe in the thermal water that comes directly from the natural hot springs deep beneath the city.”

Many Roman archaeological sites remain throughout the city, including the baths themselves, which are especially fascinating because they nestle about 20 feet below the present street level.

Pulteney Bridge is not only picturesque, but practical (wikipedia)
Pulteney Bridge is not only picturesque but also practical (Wikipedia).

Thanks to the excavations of the baths, the city became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987.

Historically, some scholars believe that Bath was the site of the Battle of Bardon in 500, when King Arthur is said to have defeated the Anglo-Saxons.

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Several areas of the city were developed during the era of the Stuarts, and even more building took place during the Georgian era. The Royal Crescent, designed by John Wood the younger between 1767 and 1774, is the most spectacular of three terraces that have become synonymous with Bath’s history.

Bath was once Jane Austen's home (wikipedia)
Bath was once Jane Austen’s home (Wikipedia).

The terraces, known as the “Circus,” consist of three long, curved spaces that form a circular area intended for civic functions and games. Inspiration came from the Colosseum in Rome.

Italian influence can also be seen at the popular picturesque Pulteney Bridge, which spans the River Avon. The three-arched design came from the Rialto Bridge in Venice, but it was also created as a shopping venue much like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence.

Today, Pulteney Bridge, though substantially altered since its original construction, remains one of the few surviving bridges in Europe that serves the dual purpose of crossing a river and “shopping mall.”

Though Bath is a popular tourist mecca today, a 19th-century visitor once remarked, “Lodgings are not very numerous, but are distinguished for the elegance, convenience and comfort which they afford visitors.”

Bath no longer has an inadequate amount of accommodations. In fact, fans of Jane Austen can stay in the same residence where the famous novelist stayed in the early 1800s. Located just off Great Pulteney Street, which has been the site of numerous period movies for its architectural history and charm, the 18th-century Georgian house features four elegantly appointed rooms overlooking the Holburne Museum, Camden Crescent and central Bath.

Pulteney Bridge at night glows with golden facades (bath co uk)
Pulteney Bridge at night glows with golden facades (

Besides the Holburne Museum, Bath also features the Jane Austen Centre, American Museum in Britain, the Haynes Motor Museum and the Fleet Air Arm Museum among others.

At night, the theatrical scene comes to life as the city morphs into another century, when time stands still in the amber lighting and soft silhouettes of history.

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Baaath is a place not to be missed, at the very least for a day trip. It is also an ideal base for other exploration through England, so stay longer if you can.

After all, those early warriors didn’t call it the “roamin’ Empire” without reason.

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About the Author: Bob Taylor is a veteran writer who has traveled throughout the world. Taylor was an award-winning television producer/reporter/anchor before focusing on writing about international events, people and cultures around the globe.

He is founder of the Magellan Travel Club (

His goal is to visit 100 countries or more during his lifetime.
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